The author on his magical escape to Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
After raising children, starting, growing, and retiring from a successful company (and publishers of this outlet) and leaving a long-term relationship, I determined that I was finally free to travel where I wanted to go. However, my parameters initially were not unusual, yet somewhat limiting. I wanted to go to a place accessible to my home on the East Coast, was affordable, and reported as welcoming to LGBTQ+ travelers.
Portugal was one of the first places that came to both my in-box with helpful suggestions from friends as well as internet searches. I decided to go during the height of summer travel season as rates and flights were still very affordable. My plan was to spend one week in Lisbon and a second week in a gay beachside resort in the Southern part of Portugal.
The 16th century Belém Tower, officially the Tower of Saint Vincent, in Lisbon, Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
The thriving and ancient Lisbon was the first stop. Lisbon is centuries old and built on the Tigres River in the foothills, buttressing the side of the surrounding mountains. Whatever your interests in history, culture or just relaxing, there is a beautiful ancient Lisbon to discover. Regardless of your interests in the city, walking is often the best and most interesting way to get anywhere in Lisbon. As such, my overwhelming and first recommendation, given the steep hills of the city, is to only wear your best and most comfortable walking shoes or sneakers as well as drink plenty of water along the way.
A picturesque street cafe in Lisbon, Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
With a modest budget of about $200 a night, I was able to get a wonderful, recently renovated, extra-large room with a giant shower in the centrally located The Late Birds (www.thelatebirdslisbon.com), which bills itself as a ‘gay urban resort.’ The Late Birds is in a restored 18th-century building in the central Bairro Alto neighborhood that borders the ‘gay district.’ It caters to gay men with a stunning pool and garden area, close proximity to metro stations, and just a short 30-minute, inexpensive Uber ride to 3 famous gay beaches – Beach 19, Nato Beach, and Meco Beach. Every morning, guests were offered a lavish breakfast that was available until noon, allowing those of us with jet lag or out late to enjoy it. My room was the former apartment of 19th century poet, Bocage, who was rumored to be bi-sexual, possess a ferocious sexual appetite and bedded the then queen and most of her court which included epic orgies in the very space I was now occupying. While the room has none of the remnants of its notorious past and now boasts modern amenities, I was channeling the energy as I read Bocage’s work and reflecting on what his times must have been like in the very space I stayed.
The author catches a streetcar in Lisbon, Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
Each of my seven days in Lisbon was one of nearly unplanned adventure around a bit of structure. Not able to fully shake the time change, I awoke each day about 10 a.m. and enjoyed a bountiful breakfast in The Late Birds lobby dining area that opened to the pool and patio. Departing the hotel about noon each day, I would set sights on a new location to explore, such as the ancient Sao Jorge Castle, the Museum of Electricity, or the Tigres waterfront. After a few hours of tourist activity, I would leisurely stroll back to the hotel in the summer heat stopping to take in a delicious bifana sandwich and then have a wonderful espresso and ‘Pasteis de nata,’ a small pie that was invented about 500 years ago with eggs, sugar, and flour.
The beautiful entrance at night to The Late Birds "Gay Urban Resort" in Lisbon, Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
Once back at The Late Birds, I would join others by the pool, enjoying the refreshing waters while drinking a wonderful juice or cocktail concoction by the small pool bar set up for the purpose. Lisbon nightlife follows European standards of starting late. However, I would often ask the hotel staff for restaurant or gay nightlife recommendations, which did not disappoint. I went to a small, unassuming restaurant and performance space that offered a wonderful dinner at just under $30 with drinks as well as one of the best drag shows I had ever seen. There are plenty of clubbing, sauna, and drinking options throughout the gay district.
The Casa Risa Resort on the Algarve in Mexilhoeira Grande, Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
After a week in Lisbon, I awoke early one Sunday morning to catch a three-hour train ride to the Algarve beach area on the Atlantic coast. I found myself getting off at a very small train station in the village of Mexilhoeira Grande which led to an ancient village built more than 500 years ago. I was picked up by a representative of the incredible Casa Risa Resort (@resortalgarve), which is a very affordable naturist wellness center for gay men nestled inside secluded walls with a sprawling botanical garden and pool. It is a true oasis ‘where everything is permitted and where being yourself is the true aim.’ The Casa Risa was like nothing I had ever seen, hosting some of the most beautiful men from across Europe as well as offering a range of body treatments, invited masseurs, and many workshops to give their guests the best possible experience.
The Algarve coast in Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
The nearby beaches are the main attraction in the Algarve area with some having the allure of being “gay” and clothing optional. All are less than 30 minutes by Uber or about $15 each way. Some of these beaches required physical ability to climb or certainly scale steep parts of the cliffside to get to the magic of the beach, waters, and nude sun bathers below. Others were flat and wonderful to stroll for many steps. I often found myself at the beach enjoying a lunch I brought with me and then returning to Casa Risa later in the afternoon to enjoy the poolside sights of beautiful bodies, refreshing swims and bountiful drinks and snacks served at the bar. For nighttime, you could frequent a couple of the family-owned restaurants and pizzerias nearby for less than $20 for a complete meal or venture to the nearby resort towns of Lagos or Portimao for a meal that will fill your belly without emptying your wallet.
Poolside at the Casa Risa Resort on the Algarve in Mexilhoeira Grande, Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
The highlight of the trip was the sunset cruise and happy hour organized by the Casa Risa owners that gave us a unique perspective from a wonderful, old fishing boat converted for cruising pleasure. Here, we got a chance to take in one of the most incredible sunsets and scenic vistas while sipping champagne and having a chance to meet and talk to most of the resort guests. It forged lifetime memories and lasting friendships.
Sailing with family off the coast of Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
Portugal is magical. It’s a very affordable respite from the beleaguered political environment and hectic nature of life in the USA. It can restore the soul, provide a bounty of new tastes in foods and people and expand our minds on what new experiences can be had for a fraction of the costs of conventional gay cruises or resorts.
The author celebrates life while sailing with family off the coast of Portugal
Courtesy Michael Dru Kelley
Michael Dru Kelley is a writer, media entrepreneur, co-founder, and principal LGBTQ+ shareholder of equalpride, publisher of Out and OutTraveler. Michael can be followed on Instagram @MDKPtown and his forthcoming food brand, social handles, and cookbook, comfortfoodsmadeclean.com.
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