Malta unveiled: Your ultimate LGBTQ+ guide to the Mediterranean paradise
| 11/20/24
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Valletta’s Skyline
Courtesy VisitMalta
Perched in the heart of the Mediterranean, Malta is a small but vibrant island nation brimming with history, culture, and natural beauty. With a population of just over half a million, it strikes the perfect balance between bustling urban centers and peaceful rural landscapes. In 2023, over three million visitors flocked to its shores, drawn by Malta's unique charm and appeal.
Often mistaken as part of Spain or Italy, Malta stands as an independent nation with its own government, language, and identity. The Maltese archipelago consists of three main islands: Malta, the largest and commercial hub; Gozo, renowned for its laid-back rural feel; and Comino, a quiet getaway ideal for day trips and hiking. The island's location—just 58 miles (93 km) south of Sicily, 176 miles (284 km) east of Tunisia, and 207 miles (333 km) north of Libya—has made it a crossroads of cultures for centuries. Despite being less than 17 miles wide, driving across Malta can take anywhere from one to a couple of hours, depending on traffic.
The country has a unique linguistic heritage, with Maltese and English as official languages. Maltese, a language with Semitic roots and Latin script, reflects the island's rich history, blending words from English, Italian, and French.
The island nation has firmly established itself as a top destination for foodies. Since being awarded its first Michelin star in 2020, the island now boasts six Michelin 1-starred restaurants, each offering creative takes on modern Mediterranean cuisine. Additionally, the country celebrated a milestone in April 2024 with its first 2-star Michelin restaurant, ION Harbour, which elevates Malta’s culinary scene even further. Malta's culinary rise is so prominent that it even has its own MasterChef series, cementing its reputation as a go-to hotspot for gastronomes looking to explore the island's evolving culinary scene.
Ranking high on the Spartacus LGBTQ+ Travel Safety Index, Malta consistently stands out as a top destination, offering a rich blend of history, culture, stunning landscapes, and over 300 days of sunshine annually. The index evaluates countries based on legal protections and living conditions for the queer community, highlighting Malta’s inclusivity and welcoming environment for LGBTQ+ travelers.
The UNESCO-listed capital, Valletta, boasts an incredible concentration of historic sites, with more than 320 monuments packed into a compact area for easy exploring. Beyond the capital, Malta's small size allows visitors to easily explore its charming villages, its other vibrant cities, and serene countryside all in one day. Whether relaxing on the quiet shores of Gozo, or taking a day trip to Comino, the Maltese islands offer a diverse and enriching experience that leaves a lasting impression.
A bird’s eye view of Malta
Courtesy VisitMalta
Getting to Malta is relatively easy, whether traveling from the U.S. or Europe. Major airlines offer connecting flights to Malta via European hubs like London, Paris, Frankfurt, and Rome. From Europe, direct flights from many cities make Malta highly accessible. Another option is the daily ferry from Sicily, which takes just under two hours of scenic sailing time. Malta International Airport (MLA), located just outside Valletta, serves as the main entry point, with convenient transport options to reach your accommodation and explore the island.
The Phoenicia Malta an ideal wedding venue
Courtesy The Phoenicia Malta
The Phoenicia Malta is a legendary 5-star hotel that marries historical charm with contemporary luxury. Just outside the vibrant center of Valletta, this landmark hotel offers guests a serene escape within arm's reach of Malta's busiest spots. Each of The Phoenicia's 132 rooms and suites is a luxurious retreat designed with both comfort and elegance in mind, with many rooms boasting breathtaking city views or of the hotel's lush gardens. Spacious bathrooms are equipped with premium toiletries, while plush bathrobes invite you to sink into relaxation after a day of exploring. The flourishing maze-like gardens are undoubtedly one of the hotel's standout features, offering breathtaking views of Manoel Island and beyond. This tranquil haven not only provides an idyllic backdrop for a morning stroll but also serves as a perfect setting for weddings, making it an ideal venue for couples seeking a stunning and romantic location for their special day.
Contessa at night
Courtesy The Phoenicia Malta
With its Artist in Residence program, The Phoenicia transforms the Palm Court Lounge into a lively showcase of Maltese art and culture and serves as the most elegant setting for a festive Afternoon Tea. It also adds a refreshing touch for returning guests, making each stay feel dynamic and exciting—like coming home to something familiar yet delightfully new each time. At Contessa, it's where high-end Southern Mediterranean cuisine becomes an everyday indulgence. This enchanting restaurant captures diners with every meal, offering an experience that's both luxurious and inviting. What I loved most was their fully advertised vegan options —no need for secret menu requests here. Their vegan breakfast spread includes carved pineapple, baked pumpkin, chickpeas, gluten-free crostini with crushed avocado, and red kidney beans. Chefs Daniel Debattista and Alessandro Gravino clearly know what they're doing; with such a balanced plate, no one's asking, or at least should be asking, where vegans get their protein! Presented on a multi-tiered stand, the breakfast feels like a royal feast. The go-to classic breakfast staples are also available, of course, including an egg and omelet station where you can customize your ingredients to your liking. They also serve traditional Maltese Balbuljata—a classic island dish made with scrambled eggs, tomatoes, and onions, offering a true taste of comfort food for those looking to experience authentic local flavors. And while renowned for its seafood dishes at dinner, Contessa's pasta and risotto dishes are so good they might make their Italian neighbors jealous.
Rosselli - A.X. Privilege
Courtesy Rosselli - A.X. Privilege
Rosselli AX Privilege is a prestigious 5-star luxury hotel in the heart of Valletta, offering an exquisite blend of historic charm and modern sophistication. Housed in a beautifully restored palazzo, the hotel is a true haven for those seeking a centralized location along with elegance and comfort during their stay in Malta's capital. Each room and suite have been thoughtfully designed, offering a range of styles from comfort to superior, all featuring plush beds for a restful night's sleep and convenient multi-country power outlets to accommodate travelers from around the world. At the heart of the hotel lies a peaceful internal courtyard, complete with an enchanting 400-year-old fountain. This quiet oasis is perfect for reading one of the many newspapers, relaxing with a book, catching up on work, or simply soaking in the tranquil ambiance. For those seeking stunning views, the Rooftop Terrace offers panoramic city vistas, with a small outdoor pool providing a refreshing escape on hot summer days.
Bathtubs fit for royalty at Rosselli - A.X. Privilege
Courtesy Rosselli - A.X. Privilege
The standout feature in some of the rooms is the generously sized bathtubs, perfect for unwinding. And while the accommodations are top-tier, dining at Rosselli is also an exceptional experience, with multiple renowned culinary options on your doorstep. The Michelin-starred Under Grain promises a refined gastronomic journey, while Grain Street, recognized with a Bib Gourmand, offers a more relaxed yet equally delicious dining choice. Rosselli caters exceptionally well to all dietary preferences, with breakfast options that include gluten-free and vegan dishes alongside traditional offerings. Don't miss their freshly squeezed Maltese orange and pink grapefruit juices—they're a sweet and refreshing way to start the day. Though the fitness center is cozy, it's well-equipped with a treadmill, bicycle, and weights, perfect for staying active after indulging in Malta's culinary delights.
The Michelin-starred Bahia
Courtesy Tonio Lombardi
Located upstairs in the elegant Corinthia Palace Hotel, Bahia is an absolute gem and a must-visit for food lovers while in Malta. This Michelin-starred restaurant combines contemporary cuisine with a deep respect for the island's rich culinary heritage. During my visit, I opted for the plant-based tasting menu, which was an 8-course journey through flavors that were delicate, balanced, and nothing short of exquisite. Bahia also offers "The Villages Journey" tasting menu, ideal for those who enjoy a more carnivorous dining experience. Both menus take diners on a culinary journey through Malta, showcasing local flavors. The intimate setting inside the regal hotel is ideal for a celebratory night out. The impeccable service is another highlight—the staff are highly skilled, friendly, and go out of their way to make each guest feel special. The food can be complemented by a selection of prestigious wines that perfectly pair with each dish. With its stunning décor and rich historical setting, the night felt luxurious from start to finish.
Verbena Wine & Dine
Courtesy Verbena Wine & Dine
Tucked away on the outskirts of Mgarr, a rural village in the Northern Region of Malta, this family-run restaurant serves up authentic Mediterranean cuisine, using fresh, seasonal ingredients that make each dish burst with flavor. Overlooking Zebbiegh Church, Verbena Wine & Dine offers a chill, relaxed vibe—perfect for winding down after a day of exploring what the island has to offer. Whether you're stopping by for dinner or a restful lunch break while sightseeing, you'll enjoy generous portions at super affordable prices. And if you're vegan, just ask the staff about the day's plant-based options, which, like the daily specials, change with the season. Their extensive wine selection is a perfect complement to any meal, featuring an impressive range of Maltese wines. Since only a small portion of Maltese wine production is destined for export, enjoying these local wines at Verbena offers a rare treat. With great food, excellent service, and a cozy atmosphere, Verbena is a hidden gem that locals swear by.
A gay couple enjoying a pastizz, the beloved Maltese snack
Courtesy VisitMalta
For an authentic taste of Malta, don’t miss the chance to try a pastizz (called pastizzi in the plural). These flaky, savory pastries are typically filled with ricotta or mushy peas and are a beloved snack throughout the islands. One of the best spots locals suggest for tasting pastizzi is Crystal Palace (also known as ‘Is-Serkin’), located near Mdina’s historic bastions. Open 24 hours a day, it’s a go-to for early-morning bites and late-night snacks after a night out. In Gozo, Maldonado Bistro in Victoria comes highly recommended. Set in a centuries-old townhouse, it offers a cozy atmosphere, blending traditional Maltese architecture with fresh, modern dishes, making it a favorite among both locals and visiting food lovers. Also in Gozo, Mekren’s Bakery in Nadur is a family-run institution that has been serving traditional ftira (a pizza-like dish) for over 100 years.
Café Society in Valletta
Courtesy Café Society
For a vibrant night out, head to Michelangelo Club, Malta's only gay club, offering two floors with dance floors and a lounge area, perfect for dancing the night away in a fun, inclusive atmosphere. If you're after a more laid-back vibe, Cheeky Monkey Gastropub is the ideal spot to relax with friends over a cold beer or glass of local wine. For an authentic Maltese experience, try Cisk, Malta's beloved national lager, or sip on Bajtra, a traditional liqueur made from prickly pears, offering a unique homegrown flavor. La Bottega is an excellent choice for live music lovers, providing a cozy setting in the heart of Valletta where you can enjoy talented local musicians. Or, if you're seeking something more elegant, Quarterdeck Bar & Lounge in Portomaso exudes sophistication with its nautical theme and terrace overlooking the stunning yacht marina. For something unique, check out ¡LA LUZ!, a Mexican-inspired cocktail bar with vibrant décor and expertly crafted drinks. It’s a quirky favorite among locals, perfect for those looking to experience Malta’s eclectic nightlife. Lastly, don’t miss Café Society in Valletta, one of the first LGBTQ+ inclusive bars on the island. Known for its inventive cocktails and eclectic crowd, this bar has become a go-to spot for those seeking a lively atmosphere and a true sense of community.
Mdina – The Silent City
Courtesy VisitMalta
Renting a car or hiring a tour service provider is highly recommended to make the most of your trip to Malta. If you prefer a chauffeured experience, Zarb Coaches offers a comfortable and convenient option to see the sights. A visit to Mdina, Malta’s ancient walled city, is a must-visit for all travelers. Founded over 4,000 years ago, Mdina is Malta's oldest fortified medieval town, perched on a hill with sweeping views of the island. Known as the "Silent City" due to its tranquil, car-free streets, Mdina's narrow alleyways, charming shops, and historic architecture make it a highlight of many trips—including mine.
Be sure to make your way to Marsaxlokk Harbour, a charming spot with picturesque sea-facing views. Enjoy a leisurely meal at The Deck or Azure Bistro, both offering stunning waterfront dining experiences, where seafood lovers will be spoiled for choice. And don’t miss the Blue Grotto—its breathtaking natural beauty is even more impressive in person, making it an absolute must-see during your visit.
For a mix of shopping and dining, visit Merchants Street in Valletta, where you’ll find an array of restaurants and souvenir shops. Great Siege Square is another fantastic spot for café hopping and picking up postcards or other little knickknacks. Hikers should explore Il-Blata Tal-Melh, a great hiking spot in northern Malta that showcases the island’s rugged natural beauty.
And for Game of Thrones fans, Malta’s cinematic landscapes served as the backdrop for many iconic scenes, but to be honest, I never watched the show, so I’m not sure which ones!
Ħaġar Qim Museum
Photo by Olly Gasper & Haylea Brown/Courtesy VisitMalta
Malta's museums provide a fascinating glimpse into the island's rich cultural and historical heritage. MUŻA, The National Community Art Museum, features works from both Maltese and international artists, while the Ħaġar Qim Museum offers insight into Malta's ancient history. Just steps away are the Ħaġar Qim Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site dating back to 3600 BC, considered one of the most significant prehistoric structures in the Mediterranean. To fully explore Malta's rich historical sites, the Heritage Malta Multisite Pass is highly recommended. This pass grants access to over 20 fascinating cultural and historical locations across the islands, making it a great value for anyone eager to delve into Malta's storied past.
The pool at The Phoenicia Malta
Courtesy The Phoenicia Malta
For a truly relaxing experience during your stay, I highly recommend visiting the spa at The Phoenicia Malta, whether or not you’re staying at the hotel. The team has thought of every detail, starting your spa experience with a refreshing cup of hibiscus tea. The massage table even features a built-in water cushion for your face—ensuring maximum comfort and leaving no lingering discomfort or bruising post-treatment. The Phoenicia Malta, renowned for hosting queens like Elizabeth II and Madonna, ensures that spa guests leave feeling like royalty themselves. When the weather allows (and it usually does in sunny Malta), you can take your treatment outdoors, enjoying a peaceful massage in the gazebo amidst the hotel’s beautifully landscaped gardens. After your treatment, complete your relaxation in their state-of-the-art wellness area, featuring an indoor pool, salt room, sauna, steam room, and multi-jet showers.
St. Peter’s Pool at Delimara Point
Courtesy Dream Beach Media
While Malta doesn't have designated "gay beaches," the island overall is incredibly welcoming, and all beaches offer a great atmosphere for everyone to enjoy and feel safe. One of the most striking—and let's be honest, Instagram-worthy—swimming spots in Malta is St. Peter's Pool at Delimara Point. This natural pool boasts crystal-clear waters and dramatic cliffs, perfect for diving or snorkeling. For a lively beach experience, St. George's Bay in St. Julian's is a popular destination. Its clear blue waters and sandy beach are great for swimming, and its central location in a bustling tourist area makes it easy to enjoy nearby restaurants and nightlife after a day of frolicking on the beach. If you're looking for a more spacious beach, Mellieħa Bay is a must. Stretching almost half a mile, this sandy beach offers plenty of room for swimming, snorkeling, and sea kayaking. However, the shallow waters make it a popular spot for families with kids, so it might be best to skip if that's not your vibe. For a peaceful retreat, take a trip to Comino, the smallest of the three Maltese Islands. Known for its pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters, Comino offers a tranquil escape, with only a handful of full-time residents and far fewer crowds. It's the perfect spot for a more secluded swim in the Mediterranean. And my personal favorite beach, Għajn Tuffieħa Bay, tucked along Malta's northwest coast, is a hidden gem with golden-red sands and crystal-clear waters.
The Triton Fountain in Valletta
Courtesy VisitMalta
Malta is filled with historical gems and free attractions that allow you to explore its rich culture without spending a fortune. Start with Triq San Gwann (St. John's Street), a charming and scenic road that captures the essence of Valletta. Nearby, while St. John's Co-Cathedral charges for entry, its magnificent exterior is impressive enough to warrant a stop. However, if you're into Baroque architecture, the interior is considered one of Europe's finest. Looking for something a bit offbeat? When I called the hotel reception for suggestions, they casually said, "Why not check out the doors?" At first, I thought they were joking, but it turns out the doorways of Malta are so iconic that they even have their own Instagram page (@maltadoors). Roaming the streets, you'll find a kaleidoscope of colorful, quirky doors that make for some great photo ops. While I usually wouldn't suggest a street with this title for an LGBTQ+ guide, hear me out— Strait Street is a must-visit! Once the nightlife hotspot of Valletta, it's now lined with trendy cafés and galleries where you can soak up Malta's incredible culture. And for something a bit more reflective, visit the Siege Bell War Memorial, a tribute to Malta's resilience through its storied past.
The Three Cities
Courtesy VisitMalta
The Three Cities—Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua—offer a unique glimpse into Malta’s storied past and maritime heritage. Often less visited by tourists, these historic cities provide a more authentic experience of Maltese life and culture. Take a quick five-minute boat ride from Valletta to explore Vittoriosa, the largest of the three. Wander the quiet, narrow streets and enjoy the rich history and charm that make these cities a must-see for any history enthusiast.
Inland Sea in Gozo
Courtesy Olly Gaspar & Haylea Brown
Malta's smaller sister island, Gozo, is the perfect destination for a day trip. Although there are hotels for extended stays, you can experience much of Gozo's charm in a single day thanks to the convenient ferry connections. Whether you catch the ferry from Cirkewwa in northern Malta (25 minutes) or Valletta (45 minutes), Gozo offers a slower, more rural vibe with stunning green landscapes and fewer crowds. Once on the island, hiring a local driver is a great way to maximize your visit. Frank's Garage Ltd. offers a reliable, affordable service and can meet you at the ferry terminal to guide you through Gozo's highlights. Popular sites include the Ġgantija Temples, which are older than the pyramids of Egypt, as well as Ta' Kola Windmill, Gozo Nature Museum, and The Old Prison—all accessible with the Heritage Malta Multisite Pass. For water enthusiasts, Gozo Adventures is a must. You can paddleboard or kayak along the rugged coastline, explore the captivating caves of Comino, and take in Gozo's stunning landscape from a unique perspective on the water. Malta is also frequently ranked as one of Europe's top diving destinations, thanks to its crystal-clear waters. With over 50 licensed diving schools across the three islands, it's an excellent spot for divers of all levels to explore the underwater beauty of the Mediterranean.
Mixta Cave in Gozo
Courtesy VisitMalta
Be sure to check local listings for the most up-to-date event information.
Exploring Malta
Courtesy VisitMalta