Discovering Iceland: a land of fire, ice, and LGBTQ+ Pride

Explore the extremes of Iceland – from fire and ice to drag queens and hot dogs

By Lulu Dropo

Iceland is a land of extremes. Fire and ice. A landscape that is both barren and fertile. Nearly entirely devoid of trees (less than one percent of its land is forested) yet comprised of rich volcanic soil and mountains.

And despite its icy heritage, you’d be forgiven if you mistakenly believed you had landed on the big island of Hawaii, as both were created by volcanic activity. Not only is Iceland still being expanded by volcanic activity, but it is also rising from the ocean faster than the ocean levels are rising.

Iceland is also a long-time welcoming and affirming travel destination for LGBTQ+ travelers.

A five-hour redeye flight from the East Coast to Iceland won’t be enough time to get adequate rest, but the bright arctic sun and crisp clean air will help you feel awake and ready to take in the country. While Reykjavik is the capital, international flights to Iceland arrive and depart from Keflavik, a 45-minute drive away that can be traversed via taxi, bus, or rental car.

No need to stop at one of the currency exchange kiosks in the airport as there is virtually no use for cash on the whole island. Even the toilets take credit cards. If you do exchange cash, keep the amount small as you risk losing money when the exchange rate changes. English is spoken everywhere. Nearly 100 percent of Icelanders speak fluent English. The Icelandic language is not a relic, as sometimes happens when the English language infiltrates a country. Icelanders switch back and forth between the two seamlessly and frequently.

We stayed at the Reykjavik Lights Hotel. It sits just above Laugardalur, the city’s historic valley of hot springs, botanical gardens, and more. The suites were sleek, soothing, and delightfully functional. They have a restaurant and lounge, with morning breakfast included.

If you’re lucky enough to have 10 days or so to visit Iceland, you will have enough time to rent a car or camper van and drive the 825-mile “ring road” around the island. For those with only a few days in the country, staying in Reykjavik and branching out on daily trips is a great way to experience Iceland.

August in Iceland is a month with 17 hours of daylight, but the sun never truly sets. Look out your window at 3 a.m. and you will see a tiny sliver of pink on the horizon. You’ll want to mind the clock if you don’t like going hungry as the late sunset can lull one into believing it is still early enough for restaurants to be open.

By 11:30 P.M. one of the few food-serving establishments open is an internationally famous hot dog stand. Bæjarins Beztu hot dog stand is Metallica’s Icelandic dining location of choice and also home to a hot dog named in honor of former U.S. President Bill Clinton. His request for a hot dog with only mustard while visiting the city in 2004 for UNICEF was so remarkable to locals that they created “The Clinton” in his honor.

Today, 20 years later, one can still order “The Clinton” at this Icelandic establishment.

If you’re looking to get wet and have the most unique experience possible, take the hour-long scenic drive to Thingvellir National Park to snorkel in the pristine (and 35-degree) waters of Silfra. Silfra is a fissure between the North American and European tectonic plates. The fissure is filled with meltwater from Langjökull glacier that filtered through underground lava rock for 30 to 100 years before filling the crack between tectonic plates. Tours are available for both scuba and snorkeling and while most divers wear a dry suit, wetsuit diving is an option as well. While getting the dry suit on is a true test of patience, the suit is worth the hassle because you stay dry (and warm) as the name of the suit implies. The area surrounding the fissure is worth exploring as well and a five-minute drive can alone in your own vast and seemingly personal piece of Icelandic nature.

If you find yourself stranded out in that vast wilderness, you may very likely be rescued by Iceland’s most famous progeny, Bjork. One of the more interesting pieces of information we learned is that Bjork is a member of the volunteer Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue. According to Reykjavik locals, she is a lovely person and frequents the neighborhood pools.

The Icelandic countryside is well renowned for its vistas and views. To take them all in without causing a wreck, book a day trip on a bespoke “Fire and Ice” tour from local operator Hidden Iceland. A luxurious 12-passenger van will pick you up to be taken on an incredible tour of the Southern coast of Iceland. Aside from the convenience of being chauffeured, you will get a local Icelander driver who will share stories and knowledge about the island country during the extended travel times.

With it being a volcanic island, you might wonder how animals and plants arrived in Iceland. Only the Arctic fox walked here. Other flora and fauna arrived by air (birds, their droppings, etc). By design (sheep, horses) and by accident (rats). There is also the rare mink, who were brought to the island for fur but successfully made a bid for freedom. There are no predatory animals! That sentiment extends to humans as well, as crime rates are remarkably low.

The people are subtle, calm, and quiet. Their dress is pragmatic and subdued. Rarely do you see anyone with any kind of body modification save for the occasional tattoo. False eyelashes and contouring seem reserved for drag queens.

Speaking of drag, the wild performance art has enjoyed an incredible revival in Reykjavik, and we were lucky enough to get to experience several drag events. It was Pride week after all!

We went to the rooftop of the Center Hotel for drag bingo with the fabulously disgruntled Bingo Bogga. Despite arriving early, the place was already packed to the gills and spirits were running high. Hearing the bingo numbers called out in Icelandic added to the fun, and the prize for bingo winners was singing karaoke for the crowd.

Of course, no visit to Iceland would be complete without a visit to the country’s one true gay bar – the Kiki Queer Bar. Within five minutes of entering the establishment, we met Hannes Palsson, co-owner of LGBTQ-owned Icelandic travel and wedding planning company, Pink Iceland. He was able to get seats for Drag Djók, a spectacular variety show featuring headliners Black Peppa and Danny Beard from Drag Race UK. Scottish boylesque performer Tom Harlow acted as host for the evening, regaling the crowd with humor and a few musical numbers. Local Icelandic queens were on full display as well with Agatha P, Gloria Hole, Jenny Purr, drag king Milo de Mix, and the Lady of the Mountain herself, Gogo Starr. Local dancers choreographed by Rebecca Hidalgo filled out the stage and supported each queen with unique dance numbers and looks.

We were treated to a second performance by Tom Harlow and Gogo Starr the morning of the Reykjavik Pride parade at T.I.D.E.S, the Edition Hotel’s restaurant which features locally sourced seafood and ingredients prepared using traditional Nordic cooking techniques.

Gogo Starr and Bio Queen Lola VonHeart were on board to entertain us while we feasted on all kinds of amazing food in preparation for the day. A sprawling buffet of food was complemented by endless mimosas. Every kind of rainbow refined white sugar confection imaginable ensured that everyone walked away buzzing and ready for the Pride parade.

There are truly no words to describe Reykjavik Pride, or Hinsegin dagar as it’s known in Icelandic. According to Equaldex, Iceland scores 92 out of 100 on the equality index, making the country the worldwide leader in LGBTQ+ rights. Over 100,000 people attend the Pride parade. Considering the population of Iceland is about 372,000, that means nearly 1 in 3 Icelanders attend.

Families with young children are everywhere, and Icelanders seem dedicated to ensuring that their message of acceptance is clear and there is no room for regression.

Noticeably absent are any corporate sponsors – rainbow flags are everywhere but devoid of corporate logos, slogans, and websites.

Images of tourists covered in mud while basking in the Blue Lagoon are an iconic Iceland touchstone, but most Reykjavik locals will tell you to visit the Sky Lagoon. If I were to rate the Sky Lagoon, I would give it as many stars as there are in the universe. It is pristine, luxurious, and memorable. We left feeling like brand new despite a breakneck trip with very little sleep or proper nutrition.

If being doted on makes you uncomfortable, have no fear. The staff there will greet you and show you the ropes, but other than that you’re on your own to enjoy the facilities. A seven-step ritual that begins in a sprawling lagoon is followed by a dip in an icy cold plunge pool. If the idea of freezing cold water makes you nervous, take this advice from a local Icelander who looked entirely comfortable in the icy pool – descend into the pool quickly and in one fell swoop. Hesitating will only prolong the misery. Focus only on your breath and don’t let the back of your neck get wet “or you will get cold.” Got it. Next up, a sauna with an incredible view, a cold mist, an essential oil salt body scrub, a steam room so steamy you cannot see your hand in front of your face, and a shower. Then it’s back into the lagoon for a glass or two of Prosecco.

Iceland is truly a land of extremes but in a good way. While the weather may be cold and frightful outside, the people are warm and affirming. Iceland is a leader in LGBTQ+ rights and affirmation, making it the perfect destination for gay, lesbian, and queer travelers looking to explore the best nature and humanity have to offer.