The Swiss Alps are the perfect disconnect from modern mania

​A visit to the Swiss Alps in any season is a beautiful disconnect from modern mania

It had been a thrilling but exhausting Pride Zurich – as most Prides are. My group and I hit the ground running after our Swiss Air flight arrived Friday morning: a boat ride of Lake Zurich (perfumed with chocolate smells from the nearby Lindt factory), a concert with Eurovision winner Nemo, and a twirl at the city’s main gay nightclub, Heaven. Then on Saturday, we marched through the streets of Zurich as part of its Pride parade, which ended at the festival. There, it was a gay rinse-and-repeat with a lineup of performers followed by a shimmy at Kweer Bar and more after-parties to follow.

Suffice to say, when we checked out of the Hotel Motel One Zürich on Sunday morning, we were all pretty beat. But God bless the uber-efficient Swiss train system — and the first-class Swiss Travel Pass, which gives blanket access to the country’s extensive network of trains, buses, and boats. I napped like a baby on the two-hour train ride to Lauterbrunnen, where upon deboarding, my fresh eyes witnessed some of the most glorious sights of my life.

• ​A visit to the Swiss Alps in any season is a beautiful disconnect from modern mania
• Swiss Connections

Arriving in Lauterbrunnen is like walking into a postcard for the Swiss Alps. Seventy-two waterfalls cascade around this mountain village, which teems with rolling green hills and charming chalets. Don’t bother buying a bottle of water. Fill your flask at the base of a waterfall, then grab a beer and a plate of Switzerland’s famous crisped fries and soak up the sights. They might feel familiar. The Lauterbrunnen valley is the gateway to the Jungfrau Region of the Bernese Alps, an area that inspired J.R.R. Tolkien’s fantastical landscape in The Lord of the Rings.

These precious views were just a preamble of what was to come. After a light lunch, we took a gondola up the side of the mountain, and then a train ride to Mürren, an Alpine hamlet where the altitude is 5,374 feet. In the Swiss Alps, transportation is a large part of the fun of the journey. Seeing Lauterbrunnen recede in size behind us, then giving way to the majesty of the mountains and sky? Incredible. And there was more beauty to see. When we arrived in Mürren, it was almost sunset, and the vista in that golden light, with no hyperbole, looked like heaven.

Mürren is no metropolis – there are about 400 residents, and the few cars you might see belong to construction crews. No one ventures up here for the bustle. The point is to disconnect, and we did so with the help of our cozy accommodations, the Hotel Drei Berge, a recently renovated lodge that oozed vintage charm. Each room, opened with a physical key, is dedicated to and personalized to honor a different global pinnacle. Mine was Indonesia’s Puncak Jaya. The Drei Berge’s name references the three mountains visible from its windows — the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau (the ogre, monk, and maiden). And again, what a sight. One of my favorite activities was grabbing coffee each morning at the complementary breakfast and gazing at these peaks from the patio.

Mürren-Schilthorn is famous for its high-altitude skiing and snowboarding, with a season that runs from December to April. There was still plenty for visitors to enjoy in June, however. There’s paragliding aplenty and, of course, hiking. I completed a 1.9-mile bucolic trek to the even smaller village of Gimmelwald, passing flowers and grazing cows before enjoying a pint at the tavern and taking a gondola back to Mürren. Don’t miss the famous Northface Trail if you’re up for a moderate challenge at 4.2 miles.

And there’s so much more mountain to ascend. Take a gondola to the Schilthorn summit, where at 9,744 feet, you’ll literally be on top of the world. There’s Hollywood history at this peak, which was the main filming location for the 1969 James Bond film, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. The headquarters of Bond’s nemesis is now a 360-degree rotating restaurant, Piz Gloria, where we brunched and toasted the Alps with mimosas. (Careful not to overindulge at this altitude!) The complex also houses a Spy World exhibit dedicated to the movie, a theater, and a Thrill Walk, where adventure-seekers can brave the heights atop glass floors and rope bridges.

I’m not the biggest thrill person — or heights person, for that matter. I’m glad I topped the Schilthorn to enjoy the views, but I was even gladder to descend back to Mürren for dinner at the Hotel Alpenruh. There, I had possibly one of the best goat cheese salads of my life and, at last, fondue. Surrounded by good company with bread, wine, and a giant pot of melted cheese in Switzerland? Now that, my friends, is paradise.

Swiss Connections

If you’re in Switzerland this winter and seeking LGBTQ+ activities, don’t miss Arosa Gay Ski Week, which runs January 18-25, 2025. Learn more at arosagayskiweek.com.

Fans of warmer climes and water activities will love Ascona in the Italy-adjacent Locarno municipality. Check into the posh Hotel Eden Roc and enjoy the beauties (and luxuries) of Lake Maggiore and the surrounding countryside. Remember, that Swiss Travel Pass will take you all over Switzerland, so don’t be afraid to explore.