Originally published in OUT August 2008, issue 176

Having stepped out of its apartheid closet into the constitutionally protected light of day a mere 14 years ago, gay life in Cape Town is booming. And like many teenagers, it’s bold, bawdy, conflicted, and in a constant state of reinvention. Stunning physical beauty abuts gritty urbanism, a contrast that makes the city both laid-back and neurotic. Think SoCal in South Africa. Flat-topped, cloud-covered Table Mountain plunges into sandy, Speedo-rich Clifton (its Miami-esque “third” beach and nearby Sandy Bay nudist area being the most gay-popular). Gabled Cape Dutch-style buildings tussle with glass-and-steel condos in the city bowl. While appreciating the fascinating intricacies of its multi-ethnic society -- black, white, Cape colored (mixed-race descendents of Malay slaves), and Afrikaner, with a total of 11 official national languages -- is tough in one visit, witnessing its ever-growing inclusiveness only takes a night out. With fits and starts, missteps and optimism, this teen has steadily grown into the queer capital of the Rainbow Nation, if not all of Africa.

Street Guide

THE DRINK
M Bar
38 Long St.; +27-21-424-7247
The second floor of the gay-owned Metropole Hotel epitomizes modern African chic—red ostrich skin, deep chocolaty wood, and ice cubes in the aquarium-walled urinal.

The Friendly Society
125A Waterkant St.
Slide shows of chilled-out regulars smile down on an early evening scene true to its name, especially on Saturdays, when 'fro-hawked drag maniac Odidiva takes the stage.

The Loft Lounge
24 Napier St.; +27-21-425-2647
A sophisticated crowd sips martinis in a retro-modern, positively soaring space. Settle in to the second-floor couches for gorgeous Table Mountain views.

THE GROOVE
Beaulah Bar
30 Somerset Rd.; +27-21-421-6798
It may be lesbian-owned, but you wouldn’t guess that by the heady mix of hipster guys and gals of all shades swaying to killer electro in the smoky boudoir-like space.

Bronx Action Bar
22 Somerset Rd.
Weekends throb with ripped bartenders and thumping house at this smallish gritty anchor to the Pink Block, where shirts are shucked with an easy-cheesy familiarity.

THE BITE
Royale Eatery
273 Long St.; +27-21-422-4536
Cheek-straining milkshakes and the city’s best haute hamburgers—beef, lamb, fish, ostrich, and veg, doused in saucy toppings -- fuel nights at the Waiting Room, its tri-level '70s retro-pop upstairs lounge.

Ginja
121 Castle St.; +27-21-426-2368
Eclecticism epitomized: Sinfully red walls offset inventive pancontinental cuisine that pairs South African ingredients like springbok (antelope) with Asian spices for high-wire fusion results.

Part One | Part Two